The Many Faces of Nantes
by Nancy Snipper
In 1941 when Nantes lost its status as capital of Brittany to become prefecture of the Loire, the city's elegant allure did not change. Though its Breton culture still thrives, many of the 600,000 Nantaises proudly believe they have a distinct identity.
Whichever side you take, everyone agrees on this: Anne of Brittany is a beloved figure in their history, and this is immediately apparent to the visitor. Her sweet statue stands outside a grand castle built for the Dukes of Brittany. Dominating the vista of the city's old section, 15th century medieval-style walls impressively belie a lavish Renaissance interior. Next year, inside the monumental space, 800 artists - mainly from Quebec - will be displaying their works in a celebrated exhibition detailing the relationship between France and Nouvelle-France.
If you go, remember Anne, for this is the figure who touches the hearts of the Nantaises; she even gave her own figure to them (it sits in a precious reliquary in the Dobré Museum). Also keep in mind that Anne lost her father, Francis II, during the war with France (1488). Forced to marry the enemy - King Charles VIII - Anne became Queen and mother to the people at the age of 14! At 33 she died, but her legacy lives on in yet another crowning landmark adjacent to the Duke's fortress: the Cathedral, the second tallest of its kind in France. Inside this Gothic limestone masterpiece lies a tomb honouring her parents. At each corner stand four life-like female sculptures in gleaming white and black marble: Justice, Prudence, Strength and Temperance are their names — the qualities of Anne. Interestingly, the figure of Prudence has a male and female face on either side. Speculation is left to the visitor.
Coming out of the church, another rare icon awaits, but this one buzzes with vitality. It's Old Nantes, a colourful matrix of cobbled stone streets winding amidst bars and boutiques with century-old narrow apartments overhead adorned with ornate wrought iron railings and masks in reliefs on some façades. Its atmosphere is irresistible. It became one of my favourite places to explore.
Strolling through the streets, I counted nine 14th century houses whose exterior wooden cross beams, granite and limestone façades squeeze into the rest of the quaint buildings sporting a newer look. They're only 400 years old, and 800 years ago, 45 walled ramparts, along with the encircling Loire, helped protect the dukes. This lovely river had many uses - not only for transport and trade, but also as a 'dumping ground' for those that were tied up in twos and dropped from boats into the Loire's watery depths. This happened at Place du Bouffay, a part of Old Nantes, now a market of sorts. It was also here that 6,000 heads were guillotined during the French Revolution (1789-1794). Nantes isn't proud of its history's dark side. During the 17th century it provided slaves to North America, fetching them from Africa. Its boats would set out on the Loire and sail out to pick up the poor souls and drop them off in America. In exchange, Nantes returned with ships laden with spices, metals and riches of all sorts, especially sugar. So remember, when you stop to taste one of Nantes' many sugary treats, the origin of all that sweetness is a bitter one indeed.
Overflowing with wealth, the city began to burst at the seams, so they built on the Loire's little sandy island of l'Île Feydeau. Today, 24 stately building courtyards harken back to such prosperity, and that wealth flourishes today. In 1935, the city filled in part of the Loire to make room for more people and to connect the island. Indeed, Nantes has made up for its nasty periods. Its immaculate tram system moves gently along to the rhythms of the Loire and Edre - another beautiful river. I signed up for Edre's two-hour cruise with commentary to get a look at the mansions occupied by 'royalty'. A map is a must if you don't speak French.
Nantes is a paradise for garden lovers. Six sumptuous parks comprise 1,000 hectares. My two favourites were Le Jardin des Plantes, which grows most of the world's flowers, and Parc Floral de La Beaujoire bordering the serene waters of the Edre. Renown for its magnolias, irises and winding ponds full of fish, Beaujoire is Nante's verdant shrine.
During the Revolution, Nantes sheltered thousands of Acadians before the Lousiana fiasco. Today, many have returned, and next year Montrealers will be in the spotlight at the Dukes' castle. In the end, Nantes has shown just how nice it can be.
